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Adee
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Feel free to ask questions or just generally comment about photographic issues here...
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Trigger
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So, you get yourself a new camera - how important to you is the “reading of the manual” - and do you? Or are you like me and leave it on the ‘easy option’?
I bought a new camera last year - which has a very good “Intelligent Auto” mode (with face recognition - wow!) - and I’ve hardly ventured off that setting. Fortunately, I’ve found a very good online forum for my camera (and variations of) and learned folks on there have recommended, rather than having it set at the automatic mode, to set it thus:
(1) Set Auto ISO
(2) Set "P" for the Programed Auto Mode
(3) Set Spot Focus
I’ve been very brave and done that - now all I’ve got to do is to persuade myself to venture out and to remember that: “you’ve got to take a picture or two”!
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Adee
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Hi Trigger..... 
ISO or ASA is how sensitive your film or digital camera is to light.
Remember the ISO is like you pupil in your eye, When there's bright light your eye close's up to reduce the amount of light going through ie: an ISO of 80 - 100 for example.
When your in low light conditions your pupil opens up and allows more light in ie: an ISO of 400 - 800 - 1600.
There is a slight downside to using sutch a hight ISO...... "Grain on the photos".
The Images below show the ISO being used and also the grain effect.
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Trigger
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Thanks for that Adee - very interesting - I shall “sail forth” with added knowledge. Now all I need is for the impetus to get me activated along with the camera!
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Adee
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Program mode "P".
Program mode is similar to Auto but gives you a little more control over some other features including flash, white balance, ISO etc.
In auto mode your camera makes just about all the decisions for you, the camera handles all of that for you. Most of the time it does a pretty good job.
I myself sometimes use "P" and then use the F stops to increase or decrease the amount of light coming through. 
The second Image shows where the F Stop Display is. By Moving it to the left it will darken your image (Longer speed needed), or to the left to make it brighter.
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Trigger
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So does switching the camera to 'Programme Mode" mean that I'm actually going to have to think what I'm doing? Could I point out that multi-tasking is not amongst my very few abilities!
But seriously, when I post any pictures (to begin with at least) taken using that facility, I will mention that's what I've done. So, as they say "Watch this space" - but not for too long!
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Gaz_H
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I normally b*gger it up first Trigger then RTFM (read the manual) and still b*gger it up. I constantly manually under expose as the cameras often get it wrong. I've noticed that the EOS-40D is no where near as good at metering as the EOS-5D MkII so i'm now learning how to uncompensate myself for the 5D
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Adee
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lol...........
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Boatbuilder
John
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I've learnt to take everything life throws at me!!
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Hi Trigger..... ISO or ASA is how sensitive your film or digital camera is to light.Remember the ISO is like you pupil in your eye, When there's bright light your eye close's up to reduce the amount of light going through ie: an ISO of 80 - 100 for example. When your in low light conditions your pupil opens up and allows more light in ie: an ISO of 400 - 800 - 1600. There is a slight downside to using sutch a hight ISO...... "Grain on the photos". The Images below show the ISO being used and also the grain effect.
Adee, I feel I must comment on your explanation of ISO or ASA/DIN. This is actually the speed of the emulsion on films i.e. its sensitivity to light and nothing to do with the amount of light actually reaching the film. This is governed by lens aperture (f-stop) and shutter speed. I appreciate these ISO settings are also used in digital cameras and do have the same effect on the grain in the picture even though no 'film' is in use.
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 The Echo Wheel of Liverpool |
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Gaz_H
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Don't forget the difference in film F stops and digital F stops (which go up in 1/3rds of film f stops) - this becomes particularly important when taking meter readings and using studio set ups
For example:
Film - f/1 1.4 2 2.8 4 5.6 8 11 16 22 32
Digital f/1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, 1.8, 2.2, 2.5, 2 .8, 3.2, 3.5, 4,, 4.5, 5, 5.6,6,3, 7.1, 8, 9, 10, 11, 13, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 etc.,
I tend to use AV on digital mainly trading ISO against F stop where necessary depending on the movement I do or do not want and Depth of Field. Whereas on film high iso often gives a nice feel to an image, on digital it just produces noise.
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Trigger
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Very True boatbuilder, being old school and an original film photographer myself (now and then)
When I first started photography - my father was using a "Quarter Glass Plate" Camera - and this is a picture of me and my first camera.
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Adee
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Try using that at this years airshow.......
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Adee
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They are still trying to do it these days.
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Trigger
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They are still trying to do it these days.
Perhaps I should have patented my original pocket camera!
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Joe
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Wanted FISHEYE LENS, probably the older the better.
Not sure what sort I want but would know as soon as I could try it out.
If you can help, or know someone who could, please contact me. Thankyou.
Peter, please could you ask at your photo club for me? Thankyou.
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Adee
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Hi Joe, I can ask at the camera club for you, but we've broken up until after the summer. We still having group meetings comming up over the holidays.
What Camera is it for ?
Lens or Addon ?
Price range ?
Slight or full fisheye ?
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Joe
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Thankyou very much, Peter, for any help you can give.
Basically I'm hoping for something I can hold over the front of my digital camera, a Canon Powershot S50, (below). The back part of the fisheye lens would need to be about the same size as a one pence piece. The lens would need to work when held to your eye, so lenses like the one on offer at Cash Converters, which just show a blur when held to your eye, would be no good.
The one I had before was a small, approximately thirty year old video camera lens. I lost it while photographing Herringfleet Mill earlier this year. I'm now looking for something that worked as well as that lens did. To use it I'd hold the digital camera with one hand & the fisheye lens over the front of the camera with the other hand. It sounds crazy but I got some excellent results working that way.
As I don't know what would work I'm happy to travel reasonable distances to try out any lenses that may be offered. Small & old & cheap is better than big & expensive & new. The wider angle it can get without distortion the better. I'm looking for something that lets you get as much into the picture as possible, for instance photographing rooms of a house & getting most of the room in the picture.
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Joe
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Ooops, ever so sorry Adee. <blush>.
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Adee
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Hi, No Problem.
I'm out today but i'll start posting up information for you all when I return.
If anybody else wants to post anything about this or any Tips / Tutorials feel free to do so. I'll create a Photography review section where members can post up reviews or tips about equipment and stuff..
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Gaz_H
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I use the following if its of any help to you Dave:-
EOS-40D Cropped Sensor:-
Sigma 10-20mm for landscapes
Sigma 17-70mm for general shots (landscapes, kids, holiday snaps etc)
Canon 60mm Macro - close ups
Tamron 90mm Macro - close ups
Canon 70-300mm for Motorsport / Wildlife etc.
EOS-5D Mk2 Full frame:-
Canon 17-40 - Landscapes
Canon 24-105 - General (landscapes, portraits, kids, snaps etc)
EOS-5D Mk2 Wish List:-
Canon 100mm F2.8 Macro
Canon 70-200mm F2.8
Canon 100-400mm F4
The Canon L series are unbelievably expensive but the quality and sharpness is second to none. The sigmas are good lenses - much cheaper than the Canon L series lenses but definately softer. Unless you've either got loads of money to burn or are a hardcore photographer then you can't go wrong with Sigma lenses though and they cover all the ranges that the camera manufacturers cover.
edit/ forgot to add - my first digital lens was a Tamron 28-300mm unit. I brought it because I thought it would give me the best of both worlds from landscape right up to long telephoto. With x10 magnification though it was incredibly soft to the point of being almost unusable past 150mm. If you go down that route I would suggest that you try before you buy.
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boating_jo
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I also have a Canon EOS 40D
Canon 17-85mm for general shots (landscapes, portraits, everyday photos etc)
Canon 70-300mm for Powerboat Racing/ Wildlife etc.
If it is any consolation, you always want/need the lens that you don't have!
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Adee
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Thanks guys, saved me a big job there.  ....... I'm knackered....
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Trigger
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"Scuba diver reunited with camera lost 6 months ago and 1,000 miles away."
“When Dick de Bruin lost his camera during a scuba diving expedition off the Caribbean island of Aruba, he held out little hope of seeing it again. The Royal Dutch Navy sergeant could only watch helplessly as it floated away while he and his dive team explored a wreck.
Yet seven months, 1,100 miles later and one hungry turtle attack later, the camera is back with Mr de Bruin after an extraordinary ocean odyssey, and all thanks to the tireless investigative skills of a Florida coastguard.” Link
Well done, to the Florida Coastguard for the investigative work!
It might be worth the idea of having one image of your printed-out home address on your Memory Card.
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Boatbuilder
John
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I've learnt to take everything life throws at me!!
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The f-3.5 is the widest aperture at 18mm and f5.6 is the widest at 55mm. I presume settings between the two e.g at 35mm will have a maximum aperture between the 3.5 & 5.6.
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The Echo Wheel of Liverpool |
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mary alger
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The f-3.5 is the widest aperture at 18mm and f5.6 is the widest at 55mm. I presume settings between the two e.g at 35mm will have a maximum aperture between the 3.5 & 5.6.
Thanks for your time answering boatbuilder. Does that mean then that although the camera can be set above the highest aperture of the lens, in this case f5.6, there's no point as the lens won't go any higher?
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Everyone has a photographic memory… some just don’t have film.   |
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Boatbuilder
John
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I've learnt to take everything life throws at me!!
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The lens aperture can be set between the widest eg. F5.6 and the smallest eg F16 depending on the lenses capability.
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Gaz_H
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Dave,
The aperture does not relate to sharpness but it does relate to Depth of Field. A lens is generally at its sharpest around F/11 (check with the manufacturer) and most get quite soft from around F/22 upwards. The more expensive the lens, the better the optics though.
You would use say F/16 if you were taking landscapes to keep the whole scene sharp and in focus but f/16 will give you a slower shutter speed so most landscape photographers use tripods to compensate. You'd use f/4 for say a wedding to put the the bride and groom in focus but blow the immediate background out of focus.
On zooms unless an expensive one - the lower range you get depends on the zoom you are using. For example on a 70-300mm lens you might be able to get f/3.5 at 70mm but you'll get a minimum of f/5.6 at 300mm. The more expensive zooms will just have the one lower aperture advertised - ie: Canon 70-200mm f2.8 (cost about £1500).
Hope this helps.
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Gaz_H
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It just means that for example say you have a 55mm - 200mm, the lens aperture can't go wider than f3.5 at say 55mm and can't go wider than f5.6 at the 200mm end with f4, f4.5, f.5 available depending on how much zoom you are using. An f2.8 55mm - 200mm would be able to get to f2.8 right through the zoom scale hence their cost.
Its got nothing to do with the smaller apertures of f/22 - f/32 etc and yes its a lens thing, not a camera thing.
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funkychick
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Crikey reading this thread I'm amazed any of my pics ever turn out at all I shoot and click ;-)
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Trigger
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Crikey reading this thread I'm amazed any of my pics ever turn out at all I shoot and click ;-)
That's what all the best people do, funky!
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freelance
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All those numbers and settings craze me. I ruined several possibly good pics by altering settings.
Now I know that in most cases the camera, on automatic, can work out things, react quicker and get things right more often than I can.
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funkychick
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Yes Free, Trigger I'm going to stay as I am and leave the techno stuff to the brainy ones
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Trigger
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Me too! Obviously, we all have different interest levels in photography - but what has surprised me with my camera is its “Intelligent Auto Mode.” This allows you to point and shoot the camera without having to worry about choosing the right mode or settings - it does it all for you. Obviously it wouldn’t suit our Photographer colleagues - but for people like me - it couldn’t be better. It does have fully Manual facilities plus HD Video - but I haven’t plucked up the courage to try those - yet!
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freelance
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Mel, I can assure you that you can be extremely successful with publication etc. without bothering with all that Double Dutch. Without digital manipulation either, just a little lightening of the pics sometimes.
Manipulation often looks false. Think of all those skies you see on photos with BLACK clouds contrasting artificially with the sky. They are not often like that in reality, and look fake.
I always maintain that digital manipulation may be a good hobby, and clever too, but it ain't photography.
Photography is about light and composition.
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Mel
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I agree with what you are saying Freelance, photography is about light and composition and using different apertures on your camera helps you control the light. As to the manipulation of pictures I think that a good old tweak of a picture can make a photo look quite stunning in an artistic sort of way. Whether it looks life like is neither here nor there in my opinion. Photos that are manipulated and sold on as untouched, well that is a different ball game, I think that is just blatantly dishonest.
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nikkai
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My photography is to put it bluntly Cr#p I do have tow camera's both are Kodak one has a 12X zoom and then digital the other is a compact both are set on auto as I have no understanding of the f this or 2.? whatever that the books spend about seventy pages describing in some strange language.
I have pictures that I find I like, they are not super but they are mine and are as what I saw (apart for the aurora borealis ) which was a let down.
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There are NO strangers HERE ! Only Friends who have not yet met....
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Adee
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I have tried books....... They don't work for me at all. Some video tutorials are ok for learnning new things as you see it being done.
Tomorrow I am taking a customer of mine out for a couple of hours showing him how to use his new camera at Wrentham. He also finds it hard to do books and always use's the Auto setting, Nothing beats hands on learning with someone, you see the results / Improvment straight away.
For anyone wanting to go to the next stage of learning photography...... The best advice I can give is: buddy up with someone who knows a bit about the subject and pick up new tips and tricks, this also lets you try new features of your camera with someone slightly more experinced it gives you more confidence too.
I have taught 3 poeple the basics.. Now there are doing wonderful photos.
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Trigger
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How true, Adee! It's alright reading about the subject - but you can't beat one-to-one tuition! You've get out and about - preferably with someone knowledgeable on the subject - and get a'clickin' - it's so much easier to do that with digital cameras - than roll-film cameras!
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funkychick
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I agree too Adee and admire the clarity of your photos, and you always remember better when you are hands on - however I also agree with Free and don't like touched up photos so much, as he is right, to me they dont look real and whats wrong with the sky as it is -it is what it is, to me to make a grey sky blue is the same as making a 34B boob 40DD not the real thing I 'm afraid I'm all for reality, bit like me really what you see is what you get :-)
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Gaz_H
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Auto settings are fine for most people but people that want to push their hobby a bit and learn the more artistic areas surrounding photography will benefit from understanding exposure, depth of field, compsition, shutter speed, ISO etc etc.
Two photos taken at exactly the same time but quite different in exposure - The 1st by Freelancer with what I assume is the camera on Auto - the second is one of my shots, i've manually compensated by -1EV on the exposure because the camera light meter is getting fooled by the dark hull of the ship.
It wasnt a particularly nice day and was just about to start drizzling with rain.
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Adee
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unfortunately...... the sad fact that nearly every image you see in magazines, news papers, internet or books etc has been touched up in some way or other.
Even going back to the days of wet prints in the dark room and buring in more detail has gone on for years. The chances of seeing images being shown "as is" is very slim to none these days.
I agree that photography should be about taking photos "as is" and not altered in anyway..... but the photo can lack atmosphere and oomph can make images very dull and unattractive to view.
As seen in Gaz's photo... alteration can add reveal hidden detail to give you a fuller picture. Over kill with special effects and HDR effects starts to make you an artist rather than a photographer...
The secret is to get an even balance to keep the image looking real and not over dramatise it too much.
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funkychick
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Its down to personal feelings Adee I realise very little nowaday is' true'
I don't see a problem with cropping or clarity, things like that dont know all the technical terms . I hate it when colours are changed or enhanced as if its real, unless its a picture that you know has been artistically changed and isnt meant to look real Not really explaining myself very well but its probable just a personal thing to me I just like as much truth and reality in photography as possible I hate the way pictures of people are airbrushed - they arent real. Peoples characters are airbrushed out in a wrinkle do you know what I mean
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Boatbuilder
John
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I've learnt to take everything life throws at me!!
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As the day was miserable I decided to play around with my new Canon SLR and spent some time experimenting with the different settings. These are just two of the pictures I took which demonstrate the depth of field.
Both pictures were taken using an 18-55mm lens using aperture priority with an ISO setting of 100 indoors using available natural light only.
The first was taken with a shutter speed of 0.6 seconds with an aperture of f5. The lens focal length was 43mm.
The second was taken with a shutter speed of 20seconds with an aperture of f32. The lens focal length was 42mm.
In both cases the focus was on the black area of the engine's tank. The photos have only been cropped and resized for the purpose of posting them here.
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The Echo Wheel of Liverpool |
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Adee
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It's good to see you trying it, and thanks for posting up your results. I like it.
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Boatbuilder
John
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Thanks, Adee.
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Gaz_H
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Nice to see you experimenting John. Note how you get a much greater depth of field with F/32 but also notice that the F/32 picture isnt as sharp as the F/5 one around the front of the engine (smoke stack / number on front).
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freelance
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Gaz, the comparison you did of my photo and yours, taken at the same time show varied results.
Yes, it was on Auto.
You obtained an artistic sky but "artistic" is not what I need. Just factual.
In my opinion, your pic lost the lovely blue colour of the ship's hull and the green of the valve gear on the tanker deck.
On the other hand -- I lost the colour of the fluorescent strip above the bridge/wheelhouse.
So I would say we compared about 50/50.
Later, when I have time, I will look at the camera figures to see what exposure was automatically given.
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funkychick
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I think its good we can use personal choices, but I do wonder why we always need to 'improve' why cant we accept, Why does the sky have to be a shade deeper than it really is?
I can see the artistic value of something like a black and white picture with a splash of colour to draw the eye to a point, or in a studio having lighting and exposure and positions that bring out the best or make it artistically pleasing, perhaps off centre or in an unexpected setting but when taking a picture of nature, animals, sky why touch it up to make it 'better'. What I really admire is the creative capture of natural scenes the artistic eye of a photographer.
Please don' t see this as critism i am really only adding to this debate I know diddley squit about techinques of photoraphy and probably have what young photoraphers consider old fashioned opinions
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freelance
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BTW Gaz, That 50/50 comment that I made, does not in any way mean that I think my photos compare with yours. Of course they don't !! Your photography is exceptional and I know you are very dedicated.
My forte is the written word.
FC. I agree with much of what you are saying. Different people have different needs from their photos. Personally, I don't need anything "arty".
I only use photos for a purpose, although for a hobby as well, and I don't think a Shipping magazine or a Business magazine would really be interested in the presentation of the clouds, for instance.
Horses for courses.
Each of us has different thoughts on photography.
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Adee
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I agree to some extent with freelance and Gaz. When you are doing Record Photography when the subject has to be "as is" without to much alteration, (ie: your sky's and extras)
But When you show your work to others or being judged at Photographic events.... The brain looks for pleasing and pretty images that go easy on the eye.
I found that detail and colour attract the brain much more than a standard image as well as the use of Triangles within your image.
It does come down to personal taste, and what you feel makes a nice image to look at. It shows how different we all are and what pleases your eye.
Time for me to stop waffling and put the kettle on I think........ 
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Boatbuilder
John
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......... but also notice that the F/32 picture isnt as sharp as the F/5 one around the front of the engine (smoke stack / number on front).
Thanks, Gaz. Yes I had noticed that sharpness you mention.
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Gaz_H
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There's nothing wrong with your photography freelancer and I didnt tweak that picture that I took in any way. What i'm trying to show is that the camera auto settings arent fool proof and do get it wrong. In such cases it helps to have the knowledge to sort out the cameras mistakes. If you remember the weather on that day was murky and overcast.
By under exposing i'm showing the conditions as they were - grey miserable clouds but retaining the detail in the ship. Unfortunately cameras can't pick up the same range of light and definitions our eyes can so its a trade off.
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caz2
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i got some pics on my phone not many and i don't know how many it retains.but someone wants one of my pics now.if i take card out with just the few pics can i put same card back in,seem such waste to remove card with 6 pics on them
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nikkai
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Yes Caz you can take the card out and have the images either copied or even removed then replace the card and your camera will continue to use the card and set consecutive file numbers from the last image number.
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There are NO strangers HERE ! Only Friends who have not yet met....
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Trigger
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Have recently acquired err, bought a new DVD player (Blu-ray) which has all sorts of extras - like connecting to the internet, etc. Have just realised that I can easily view photos on there (easier than connecting your camera to view) - so have been viewing some (put onto Memory Stick) on the larger TV screen - impressive! I just wish it had a zoom button so that I could have had a closer look “into” the image!
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Trigger
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1. Me player was legally bought, I'll have you know (from Richer Sounds).
2. Me on a large screen? They don't make a screen that big! And anyway there are no pix of me - I make sure I'm operating the camera.
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mary alger
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1. Me player was legally bought, I'll have you know (from Richer Sounds). 2. Me on a large screen? They don't make a screen that big! And anyway there are no pix of me - I make sure I'm operating the camera.
1. Are you sure that's not the one run by 'Trotter's Independent Traders'.
2. I'm in all my photo's Trigger, my eye anyway. This lady taught me all I know. 
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Everyone has a photographic memory… some just don’t have film. |
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Adee
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Been Busy at the camera club.......
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Mel
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Well done Adee. Don't forget to put a tin of silver polish on the shopping list this week
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Adee
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lol.... yeah, going to need it if I have to look after them for a year.
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Boatbuilder
John
Administrator
Lowestoft Online Addict
Gender:
Posts: 4039
I've learnt to take everything life throws at me!!
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Congratulations Adee. I guess from your last post you only get to keep the certificates.
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The Echo Wheel of Liverpool |
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Gaz_H
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Well done Adee - I'm not surprised though. Your photography is first class.
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Adee
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Thanks.......
I would'nt mind going on one of your half day workshops Gaz.... If you could PM me any details. I get the concepts of photography but my results are below average on certain subjects ie: Landscapes.
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Joe
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Panasonic TZ9 Exclusive High Zoom Compact Digital Camera
Please can someone help me find some reviews for this camera. Since losing my trusty fisheye lens I've been looking for a new compact digital camera with a wider angle view. This was suggested recently as fitting the bill, and also having the following features:
excellent macro
excellent zoom
HD video with excellent quality sound recording, clips up to 10 minutes
Now zoom is a bonus but I take more photos in confined spaces than from a great distance. Getting more in the shot in a confined area has always been a priority for me but my budget is limited. I accept nothing will equal the results of the fisheye lens I lost without spending a fortune on equiment. However the excellent macro & excellent video/sound features did appeal, & if I ever do find another suitable fisheye lens (I'm told I want an old video camera one from about 30 years ago!) I could use it the same way as the one I lost.
I'm asking here because I've done a few Google searches & not found any reviews for this camera. It received the highest praise from the shop, Comet, in Norwich, but one can never truely trust sales staff with targets to meet! Things like how sturdy it is, would it survive being dropped, (not something you plan to do but bound to happen!), & what's battery life like? So if you know any review sites I'd me most grateful for links.
Thanks.
Price £250,
case £20, ridiculous price, but sold (or not sold) separately
battery & memory card extra, 32gig £110, 16gig £80 - this seems expensive
12m pixels
LCD screen 3 inches
memory type SD
continuous shooting
optical zoom X12, digital zoom X4
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Mel
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Don't know nothing about the camera myself Joe but there is some information about it Here
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Joe
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Thanks, Mel.
There's mention of it at that forum but they all had the same problem finding a review.
So the search is still on!
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Boatbuilder
John
Administrator
Lowestoft Online Addict
Gender:
Posts: 4039
I've learnt to take everything life throws at me!!
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Have just been to the library and whilst there had a look at the photographs being displayed near to the check-in desk by the Lowestoft Photographic Club. Some excellent pictures displayed, has anyone else had a look at them?
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The Echo Wheel of Liverpool |
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